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How to Use Your Foot Hemmer / Rolled Hemmer Foot

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The sewing foot I am asked about the most is the foot hemmer (rolled hemmer). The most important part is getting it started, and what to do when it gets "out of the groove". I hope this little guide will provide some additional helpful tips and hints. For additional information of how to use the foot hemmer and other sewing machine attachments, you might want to refer to my recently published book, The Sewing Machine Attachment Handbook. It does cover about 25 of the basic attachments/sewing feet with clear photos and step-by-step instructions. You will find a copy in my ebay store.

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Using your Foot Hemmer / Rolled

Whether you have a vintage foot hemmer or a newer one, the instructions are the same.

The foot hemmer is made with a spiral formed tongue (scroll) which turns in the edge of the material and forms the hem. The foot hemmer

is attached to your machine in place of the regular presser foot and is used for hemming the edge of material, making hemmed and felled

seams, and you can also hem and sew on lace in just one operation. To attach, raise your needle to the highest position, remove your

presser foot, and attach the foot hemmer.

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Start Hem at the Very Edge

At times, the foot hemmer can be a little tricky to learn. With practice you will do amazing things, but in the beginning don’t be surprised if your material and your hems are “crooked”, to say the least. Sit and practice, practice, and practice. Once you get the hang and learn your own tricks, this is a wonderful little attachment for making those dainty hems. Take it slow and you will have a perfect hem every time.

Fold the edge of your material twice, about 1/8” each time. Do this fora distance of about 2 inches and then I finger crease the folds. %img src="!!d23iWQ!3M%3C/p%3E%0D%0A%3Cp%3E$(KGrHqUH-DMEr)jg4zkyBL!-PkGf1g%3C/p%3E%0D%0A%3Cp%3E_35.JPG" /% %img src="!!d23iUQ!3M%3C/p%3E%0D%0A%3Cp%3E$(KGrHqYH-E!Erfu2nQegBL!-J!NlhQ%3C/p%3E%0D%0A%3Cp%3E_35.JPG" /%

Place about three or so inches of your needle and bobbin threads under the hemmer. Place your creased edge of material under the hemmer

and have your end of hem directly under the needle. Lower the hemmer foot and tack this end with about two or so stitches.

Raise your hemmer again. Pull the threads and the hem slightly away from you with your left hand (while holding the threads) and pull the

material toward you with your right hand into the scroll of the hemmer until the tacked end is caught in the hemmer. I do sort of “jiggle” it

back and forth very gently until I see it is all within the hemmer foot. Then I am ready for the next step.

Lower the hemmer and begin sewing, again pulling the threads back while sewing. It is important to keep the mouth of the hemmer full of material so you have an even hem.

Hint: I do try to manually have about 1/8” hem folded right before the material goes through the hemmer foot. So, your left hand is in the back of the presser foot keeping the material taunt and your right hand is in front, guiding the material through.

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What do you do when the fabric begins twisting and coming out of the hemmer? Stop. Lift the presser foot. With one hand behind the presser foot and one hand in front (holding the fabric just taunt), wiggle the fabric back and forth. You will "feel" it pop back into the scroll. Lower the presser foot and continue hemmer.

Hem and Sew on Lace in One Operation %img src="!!d23iZ!BHM%3C/p%3E%0D%0A%3Cp%3E$(KGrHqIH-CwErerlqI,fBL!-Yn(jbQ%3C/p%3E%0D%0A%3Cp%3E_35.JPG" /%

Begin sewing in the normal manner.

Hold the hem in position with the needle, just as you did earlier. Raise your presser foot and insert the edge of your lace into the slot of the hemmer and pull it back under the hemmer.

Lower your foot and begin sewing. Your lace will be caught on the edge with the needle. I usually guide the fabric being hemmed with my left hand while guideing the lace with the right hand. This can help keep it properly in the slot and directly above your hem. Be sure your needle stitches through both the lace and the hem.

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