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1928 A Silver Certificate Dollar

what is the value of a one dollar silver certificate

Hi, Ed!

Flying Blue Eagle is a person on this site who has the current documentation concerning the possible monetary value of such things. As such, I'm sure that he will be along eventually to address your post.

In the meantime, and as per Flying Blue Eagle's request, it would be helpful if you would post the following information concerning the currency that you have. I know that you have already provided some of the information that is asked for in the quote that is below.

What it is worth monetarily will also greatly depend on the graded condition of it. Do you know what the graded condition of it is?

If you might not, then what is below should be helpful to you. Flying Blue Eagle will also need to know what the possible graded condition of it is.

What is posted below is quoted from the following site. 1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

The condition of a note is critical to its value. Lowering the

grade of a note one notch can decrease its value by 1/3 or even

1/2. An expensive note which falls between two categories might

be worth a thousand dollars more in the higher category than the

lower one. Thus, it's often important to be more precise than

using a limited number of categories.

But here's a general guideline. Note that many dealers have

slightly different grading systems, especially with various

sub-grades of uncirculated. There's no official system of grading,

unfortunately. But these are pretty much universally accepted.

I've received a lot of input and tried to hammer out the best

descriptions for each category.

Crisp Uncirculated, UNC or CU: This means absolutely not the

slightest sign of any handling or wear or folding or *anything*.

Some people use additional grades to distinguish qualities such


perfect centering or other printing characteristics. Certainly

a note which has centering problems which are visible from a

Extremely Fine, EF or XF: Generally three light folds or one strong

fold which breaks the surface. There may be slight rounding at the


Very Fine, VF: May have several folds although the note is still

crisp and has a minimum of dirt. There may be minor tears or very

small holes but nothing which distracts from the overall appearance

of the note. Take an uncirculated note and crumple it once in your

hand, then flatten it out: this is a Very Fine note. Repeat the

crumpling and it's still pretty much a VF note.

Fine, F: A circulated note where individual folds and creases may

no longer be visible. To distinguish this from a VF note, when

inspecting a Fine note, it clearly does not look like a note which

has merely been crumpled a few times: It doesn't have the crispness

and brightness of a VF note. No tears may extend into the printing.

This is your average in-the-wallet note.

Very Good, VG: Tears and small holes can be present. The note is

not crisp at all. The is your lower quality in-the-wallet note.

Lots of people on the 'net don't realize that a note in "very good"

condition is really pretty lousy.

Good, G: Small pieces missing, graffiti. A worn out note.

Fair: Major tears, etc. A badly worn out note.

Poor: Even worse.

To grade a note precisely, it can help to hold the note about

20 cm (7 inches) under a strong light source (use the same source

for comparing notes) and on top of a white piece of paper and

use a 3x or 4x power magnifying glass. Make sure your hands are

clean before handling a note. This method will show a lot of

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